Du Toit Ilkhe

In her MA graduate collectionSALT, Ilkhe du Toit reimagines woven garments by using the textile itself to shape the form. Growing up on a Merino sheep farm in South Africa, Ilkhe developed a deep connection to wool. This connection came full circle through a partnership with Marzotto Wool Manufacturers, a renowned weaving mill in Italy, who became the sponsoring partner forSALT. Marzotto sources Merino wool directly from her farm, bridging her heritage with the complexities of industrial textile production. "Witnessing the resources and labour involved in the process deepened my appreciation for wool and inspired me to prioritise waste reduction in my designs," she reflects. Each garment in theSALTcollection is made from a single piece of fabric, woven from one fibre, one yarn, and one structure. The fabric design features hollow tubes with pull strings that, when gathered, shape the garment—eliminating the need for traditional cutting and sewing. As a result, the garments are adjustable and transformable and made without offcuts. The guiding principle behind her work was "to use fewer materials, fewer processes, and generate less waste." Filmed on a salt pan in South Africa, the accompanying fashion film titledSALTexplores the paradox of balance—essential in moderation but disruptive in excess. It highlights the tension between beauty and depletion. Salt, a key element in fabric dyeing, can render landscapes barren when harvested in excess."By juxtaposing vibrant garments against the desolate backdrop, the film highlights the weight of our choices,"she remarks. ThroughSALT, Ilkhe explores how a shift in process can lead to a shift in impact.